Today I was looking at the Pacific Ocean from one of the corners of California coast. The spot was a three or four hour drive from Berkeley. The waves were strong and the wind wild. Surfing comes to mind.
One waits for the right wave to ride when surfing. When the big one comes, the surfer holds the sides of the board while lying down, bends the left or right knee in preparation for a standing position, pushes the board, springs up – one foot forward, arms stretched to balance, tries not to fall down, until one reaches the sand bar. If the surfer falls over in the middle of ride, there’s always the option to swim back to where the waves form, and try again. It’s called persistence.
There are so many odds along the way of a surfer, and it could be really frustrating at times because of the multiple ugly, unflattering falls that could sometimes cause injury, and if one doesn’t manage to stand and make it, there is the ocean to be enjoyed, at least.
(10:45pm, some inn in Monterey, CA)